Medieval market halls

One of the more unusual building types that you will come across in southern France – especially in the medieval and bastide towns of the south-west of the country – is the traditional market hall.

These typically date back up to 700 years, and have long served as permanent ‘covered markets’. Because of this role they are usually found in the centre of towns (eg Villereal, Monpazier, Domme and many others), usually in a large open square.

There are various different versions of the structure, even in the unmodified form.

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Dordogne village architecture

The Dordogne region has numerous buildings that are immediately recognisable, such as Chateau Beynac or Chateau des Milandes – great impressive medieval castles standing aloft on rocky clifftops that have come to represent the region, along with the picture-postcard-pretty villages that dot the region.

But these are perhaps not the memories that you will take away with you after a vacation in the region!

Despite the popularity of the region with visitors (during the summer months) there are still numerous hamlets and villages that are easy to find yet off the tourist circuit.

It is in these places, often little more than a few houses clustered around a church, that you will find the real Dordogne.

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Basque towns of south-west France

The Basque region runs along the border between France and Spain, and includes part of the south-west of France, running eastwards into the Pyrenees.

The region is attractive to visitors for various reasons, including the coastline and resorts, the mountain scenery and activities, and for the villages.

The Basque villages have a very individual style, with the houses being whitewashed, with the exposed wood (shutters, beams etc) being painted red or green – these are the traditional Basque colours and seen very widely in the region.

The red is apparently  because the wood was originally painted with bull’s blood. Less common nowadays I think!

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Discovering the real France

Travelling around France you will occasionally find yourself in a lost corner that has not yet been taken over by renovating expats and is miles from the nearest sign of life.

These corners are ever harder to find, especially in the more popular tourist centres of the country, but are a particular treat because they hark back to how France ‘is supposed to be’ and how visitors will still perhaps imagine it.

It is these small discoveries that are as important and memorable as your visits to the ‘major’ destinations, and it is because of these special moments that France continues to be such a popular attraction.

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Matisse Chapel at Vence

The south of France – especially the south-east of France – attracted many artists during the decades between 1890 and 1960, several of whom later became household names with paintings and artworks valued at millions of dollars. This we all know.

In a village a few kilometres inland from Cagnes-sur-Mer on the French riviera is a great work of art that will never be sold and is impossible to value – the Matisse chapel at Vence. Matisse himself is said to have claimed it was his greatest work.

Built after world war 2 between 1949 and 1951 it was Matisse who designed every aspect of the chapel after the suggestion of Sister Jacques-Marie (who had worked for Matisse before entering the convent). It is useful to remember that Matisse was 77 years old when he started on the project – most artists create their greatest works when they are rather younger!

Vence chapel is a small, understated building, although the tall cross on the roof gives a clue that it is something out of the ordinary – in particular the crescent moons that decorate it. Not entirely conventional for a church cross.

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